At the edge of the largest of the Great Lakes, the small harbor town of Bayfield, Wisconsin, forms a gateway to music, art and the Northern wilderness of the Apostle Islands.

In photos, the sea caves of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore look like lacy decorations at the base of the layer cake of red, black and gold sandstone bluffs towering over Lake Superior just outside Bayfield, Wisconsin. But from the low vantage point of my kayak, the caves have the soaring, echoing majesty of a cathedral nave … [continue to full article]